Seville and Triana, love divided between two banks, two cities. For many, Triana is considered an independent city, and crossing the bridge does not take you to the other side of the river, but rather to “Seville.” According to legend, the goddess Astarte, who was pursued by Hercules, blinded by his love for her, escaped to the other side of the river and founded Triana there. Triana has been populated since ancient times, but it wasn’t until 1171 that the neighborhood began to flourish. It was then that the floating bridge built on boats was constructed to unite the two banks, and the Castle of San Jorge was erected to protect the bridge, which later served as the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition. The castle is partially ruined, but beneath the Triana market, its ruins can still be visited today.
The story behind Triana’s name is not without controversy. Some believe the name derives from the words “Tri” (three) in Latin, and “Ana” (river) in the Celtiberian language, as the river divided the area it flowed through into three. Others claim it comes from the Roman emperor Trajan, as the Arabs were called Atrayana or Athariana, and the evolution of Traiana-Trajano-Triana came to name this area of the city.
Triana is the birthplace of bullfighters, singers, artists, potters, and sailors. The constant flow of immigration and emigration associated with its proximity to the sea forged its unique character. It has been the best place, both past and present, for those interested in ceramics; 90% of all the pottery you can see around the city was made in Triana. This was due to its proximity to the river, but also because the toxic fumes reached Seville. Today, it’s an excellent place to buy the beautiful tiles and ceramics typical of Seville, Andalusia, and Spain.
Many famous bullfighters were born in Triana, and it is also one of the birthplaces of flamenco. Flamenco is a blend of Andalusian and Romani music. Even today, a large number of flamenco artists are Romani, and those who are not, the majority are Andalusian or at least of Andalusian descent. This makes flamenco an Andalusian art. Therefore, this is the place to see a flamenco show or learn about flamenco. Every year, thousands of people come to Seville to learn to dance or play the flamenco guitar. Singing flamenco is difficult. Not only is it necessary to be fluent in Spanish, but you also need the specific raspy voice to sing this genre.
Betis Street, which is the old name for the Guadalquivir River, is known as the most photographed, charismatic, and symbolic street in the city. With its colorful facades, the river is right in front of you and the beautiful Triana Bridge is right next to it. It has the advantage of its wonderful views. If you’re enjoying a refreshing drink with tapas, you’ll have the Giralda Tower and the Torre del Oro right in front of you. Running parallel to the river across the Triana Bridge, there was also the place where soap was once made. This place, too, was vulnerable to flooding, but today it’s a weekend craft market where local artists display and sell their work. Triana isn’t well-known among tourists, but it’s worth a visit to experience the authentic Andalusia.
